Welcome to Off The Shelf, a new monthly series where we dust off the cookbook shelves and commit to cooking properly from one book every month. Rediscover the joy of flipping through the pages of a well-thumbed cookbook, add some new meals to your repertoire and see what happens when you step away from the endless scroll of online recipes.
It is all too easy, perhaps even inevitable, to fall into a rut of weeknight dinners. Perhaps you have to cater to different tastes, or time is never on your side, or it’s the last thing you want to do after a busy day. Like the fatigue we all get when there are hundreds of things to watch but nothing quite hits the spot, we are so bombarded by endless recipes these days it’s easy to feel overwhelmed and stick with what you know. But cookbooks offer us a moment of calm, to slow down, read the words in front of you and think solely about the task at hand. They can help plan a week, inspire new techniques and get everyone excited about trying new things - even the pickiest child can be won over by the rainbow-coloured spines of a recipe book. So this month, we’re breaking the cycle and we’re starting (perhaps appropriately) with Ottolenghi’s Simple.
Why Simple?
The name ‘Ottolenghi’ conjures many things, none of which could be described as ‘Simple’. Complex flavours, lengthy shopping lists, recipes with 4 different toppings requiring 5 different spices and 6 different techniques, perhaps. But Simple promises to be different. It’s Ottolenghi’s answer to real life - busy families, weeknight cooking, accessible ingredients (most of the time). There are still challenges to be found for those seeking a little extra, some of which look daunting (Harissa & Confit Garlic Roast Potatoes, p.142) but are actually fairly simple once broken down, but the recipes are handily organised with symbols to show which are under 30 minutes, which can be made ahead of time and which are pantry-friendly. This is certainly a cook’s book with some distinctly Ottolenghi touches - the welcome zest of za’tar and fresh, salty tang of preserved lemons, rich pomegranate molasses balanced beautifully with fragrant herbs. But these feel like gentle introductions to new flavours rather than intimidating shopping expeditions.
The Show Stoppers: The Slow-cooked Lamb Shoulder with Mint & Cumin (p.215) was absolutely full of flavour and fell apart following a 6-hour slow cook. Paired with Roasted Beetroot with Yogurt & Preserved Lemon (p.125), a classic Persian salad, Roasted Baby Carrots with Harissa and Pomegranate (p.116) and the Bold Bean Co hummus hack, it made a fantastic alternative to a Sunday lunch. The leftovers the next day were sensational piled atop a flatbread and scattered with pomegranate seeds.
The New Regulars: A relatively simple traybake in which the chicken is marinated and roasted in Miso, Ginger and Lime (p.230) has earned its place in the family repertoire, with a sharpness from the lime and sweetness from maple syrup and mirin providing a very moreish glaze. Breaking from the Ottolenghi tradition (for which he’d surely take pride), the leftover cooking juices were added to broth and served with noodles. Likewise, the pepper sauce from Harissa Beef Sirloin with Pepper & Lemon Sauce (p.225) is worth the effort for a large batch and can brighten up just about any dish.
The Other Side: The Braised Eggs with Leek & Za’atar, while certainly not lacking in flavour, lacked the liquid necessary to properly poach the eggs in the flavour. The eggs were quickly forgotten, a blob of cream cheese added to the mix and it made a fantastic pasta sauce.
What We Actually Learned
First of all, the act of flipping through a cookbook, writing down your favourite recipes, reading the words so carefully put together, is an act of pure self-care. It brings a mindfulness back to cooking and helps us to slow down and consider our steps. This in turn, helps us appreciate the ingredients, techniques and the understanding of how flavours work together. When you’re committed to cooking from one source, you naturally start planning better. Weekend prep became enjoyable rather than rushed and midweek cooking felt manageable rather than stressful. By the end of the month, we were tweaking recipes, combining techniques and making substitutions. That’s the mark of a good cookbook - it teaches you to cook, not just follow instructions.
Simple reminded us why cookbooks exist, why the covers can be so engaging and why they’re passed from friend to friend and generation to generation. Not just a collection of recipes, but a journey through someone’s culture and their understanding of food. Ottolenghi guided us through a month of better eating, more intentional cooking and genuine excitement about what was for dinner.
Next Month
In August, we’re diving into something completely different. Part-memoir, part-cookbook, Ella Risbridger’s Midnight Chicken & Other Recipes Worth Living For is at times heartbreaking and at times joyful, as she navigates friendship, grief and growing up through a collection of beautifully written recipes. Join us as we cook some of her most memorable recipes, and some new ones as well.